Origin of a Classic: Roscón de Reyes

The tradition of slicing into a beautiful and delicious king cake is one that transcends cultures and ages. There are many names for the cakes that are traditionally enjoyed during Epiphany and the pre-Lenten season; in Spain and other Spanish-speaking countries, it’s roscón de reyes, which translates to “king’s cake” or “three kings’ bread.” Although every aspect of this cake, from the jewel-like candied fruits to the circular shape, resembles a crown fit for royalty, its history and traditions began in a time before kings.  

The ancient Roman festival of Saturnalia, which occurred over several days in December to honor Saturn, the Roman god of agriculture, abundance, and renewal, was filled with parties and feasts. Cakes with a bean or coin hidden inside were prepared, and whoever received the slice containing the object would be crowned “king of the day” and was allowed to request anything they wanted. 

As the Roman Empire expanded and evolved, the cake and its traditions fell out of favor, especially when Christianity became its official religion. It wasn’t until the Middle Ages when a king cake bearing resemblance to the Roman version made its return in Europe. In this time, Christmas celebrations began on December 25 and lasted until January 5. On the final day, also called Twelfth Night, a “bean cake” would be served, and as during Saturnalia, the recipient of the bean hidden inside would be crowned “king of the day.” 

Over time, the tradition of king cake became tied more closely to Epiphany, which marks the arrival of the three Magi in Bethlehem to visit baby Jesus and bestow gifts upon him. In France, during the reign of King Louis XV, from 1715 to 1774, the galette des rois became increasingly popular, with the bean inside being replaced with a gold coin. King Felipe V of Spain, who ruled from 1700 to 1746, brought king cake into fashion in his country. Though still called cake, roscón de reyes is a bread that’s shaped into an oval or a circle, which represents of the eternal nature of God and God’s never-ending love, and decorated with dried or candied fruits that symbolize the crown of the Magi, and a coin is hidden inside that symbolizes baby Jesus.  

Some families believe every aspect of this cake holds symbolic meaning, from the shape to the knife used to cut it, which symbolizes the danger Jesus faced and his persecution. Hiding a bean inside the roscón eventually came back into fashion in addition to the coin. Whoever found the coin was crowned king and the person who found the bean was called el tonto del haba, or “the bean fool,” and had to provide the cake the following year. Modern versions substitute the coin with a small figurine of Jesus or of a king, and most still include a dried bean. The most traditional filling is whipped cream, though some families opt for a fruit jam instead.  

The love of the roscón de reyes spread to Latin America as Spanish settlers spread their traditions, and today, many nations in Central and South America have their own versions and traditions. Argentine custom is to forgo adding a bean or figurines and the roscón is topped with a pastry cream and candied cherries or figs. In Mexico, their roscón follows the Spanish version closely, though there are usually four toppings to symbolize the four cardinal points, one of which is typically a crackled strip of sugary dough similar to craquelin or the topping of a concha, a Mexican sweet bread. Additionally, Mexican families don’t include a bean, and the winner of the figurine has the honor of hosting the party and providing tamales for Día de la Candelaria, or Candlemas, on February 2.  

Today, the roscón is enjoyed by households all over Spain on Epiphany, or Día de los Reyes Magos. As you decide how you want to celebrate this year, consider taking part in this tradition that has deliciously evolved over a few millennia.