These cookies reimagine the iconic Italian American dessert of spumoni ice cream. Each dough is subtly flavored—thanks to cherry preserves, almond extract, pistachios, and cocoa powder—to echo the classic trio of gelato flavors that first found fame in Italy. The technique here is more architectural than your average cookie. The dough is divided into three flavors and chilled into firm rectangles before being sliced and stacked into a Neapolitan-like mosaic. Each slab must be square and solid to allow clean slicing and neat stacking, preventing wonky layers and preserving the clean color lines that give these cookies their charm. A brush of egg white on each layer bonds the stripes into one cohesive (and mesmerizing) bite.
Spumoni Checkerboards
Ingredients
- 1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, softened
- 1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar
- ½ teaspoon (2 grams) kosher salt
- 1 large egg (50 grams), room temperature
- ½ teaspoon (2 grams) vanilla extract
- 2½ cups (313 grams) plus 2 tablespoons (16 grams) all-purpose flour, divided
- 2 tablespoons (40 grams) cherry preserves*
- 1 drop pink gel food coloring
- 2 tablespoons (10 grams) unsweetened cocoa powder
- ¼ cup (35 grams) raw pistachios, finely chopped
- ¼ teaspoon (1 gram) almond extract
- 2 to 3 drops green gel food coloring
- 1 large egg white (30 grams)
Instructions
- In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat butter, sugar, and salt at medium speed until light and creamy, 2 to 3 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Beat in egg until combined; scrape sides of bowl. Beat in vanilla; scrape sides of bowl. With mixer on low speed, gradually add 2½ cups (313 grams) flour, beating until just combined.
- Divide dough among 3 bowls (about 260 grams each). Add preserves and remaining 2 tablespoons (16 grams) flour to first bowl, gently kneading or stirring with a rubber spatula until combined; tint with pink food coloring as desired.
- Add cocoa to second bowl, gently kneading or stirring with a rubber spatula until combined.
- Add pistachios and almond extract to third bowl, gently kneading or stirring with a rubber spatula until combined; tint with green food coloring as desired. Shape each dough into a 4½x4-inch rectangle (¾ inch thick). (The size is important; try to keep the sides as straight and squared as possible.) Wrap each in plastic wrap, and refrigerate until firm, at least 2 hours, preferably overnight.
- Trim sides of chilled doughs to straighten. Slice each slab into 6 (4x¾-inch) strips. Lay down one of each color (brown, green, and pink), gently pressing to adhere. Using a pastry brush, lightly brush egg white on surface, and gently press strips together to adhere. Repeat with 3 more alternating strips and more egg white. Top with final layer of alternating strips. Gently press sides of log to adhere everything. Repeat with remaining strips to give you 2 (4-inch-long) logs. Wrap each in plastic wrap, and refrigerate until cold, at least 2 hours.
- Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Line baking sheets with parchment paper.
- Using a sharp knife, trim ends of logs. Cut logs crosswise into ½-inch-thick slices, and place 2 inches apart on prepared pans.
- Bake, one pan at a time, until edges are golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes. Let cool on pan for 5 minutes. Remove from pan, and let cool completely on a wire rack. Store in an airtight container for up to 1 week.
Notes
*We used Bonne Maman® Cherry Preserves.
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