
This popular French breakfast treat is often colloquially referred to as “escargot” (“snails”) due to its spiraled shape. Thanks to laminating salted butter into an enriched yeast dough, the golden, flaky exterior softly gives way to a filling of brandy-soaked raisins and rich vanilla seed-speckled Pastry Cream.
Pains aux Raisins
Ingredients
- ⅓ cup (80 grams) warm whole milk (105°F/41°C to 110°F/43°C)
- 4 tablespoons (48 grams) granulated sugar, divided
- 1½ teaspoons (5 grams) active dry yeast
- 2 to 2¼ cups (250 to 281 grams) all-purpose flour, divided
- 2 large eggs (100 grams), room temperature
- ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
- ½ cup (113 grams) salted butter, softened
- ⅔ cup (114 grams) raisins
- 3 tablespoons (45 grams) warm brandy (100°F/38°C to 110°F/43°C)
- Pastry Cream (recipe follows)
- 1 large egg (50 grams)
- 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water
- Swedish pearl sugar, for sprinkling
Instructions
- In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together 1/3 cup (80 grams) warm milk, 1 tablespoon (12 grams) granulated sugar, and yeast. Let stand until foamy, about 10 minutes.
- Add 1 cup (125 grams) flour and room temperature eggs to yeast mixture; using the paddle attachment, beat at medium low speed until a shaggy mixture forms, 2 to 3 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl.
- Switch to the dough hook attachment. Add 1 cup (125 grams) flour, salt, and remaining 3 tablespoons (36 grams) granulated sugar; beat at low speed just until combined. Increase mixer speed to medium, and beat until dough is smooth and elastic, 7 to 10 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl; add up to remaining ¼ cup (31 grams) flour, 1 tablespoon (8 grams) at a time, if dough is too sticky.
- Add butter, 1 tablespoon (14 grams) at a time, to dough, beating until combined after each addition. Beat until dough pulls away from bottom and sides of bowl, becomes smooth and elastic, and passes the windowpane test, 6 to 8 minutes.
- Spray a large bowl with cooking spray. Place dough in bowl, turning to grease top. Cover and let rise in a warm, draftfree place (75°F/24°C) until doubled in size, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
- Punch down dough, and turn out onto a lightly floured surface. Flatten into a 10x6-inch rectangle, and transfer to a parchment paper-lined baking sheet. Cover and refrigerate for at least 5 hours or up to overnight.
- In a medium bowl, combine raisins and warm brandy; let stand for 20 minutes.
- Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
- Turn out dough onto a heavily floured surface; lightly dust top of dough with flour. Roll dough into a 14x11-inch rectangle. Using a small offset spatula, dot Pastry Cream onto dough; spread into an even layer, leaving a ½-inch border on one long side.
- Drain raisins, and sprinkle onto Pastry Cream. Starting with long side opposite border, roll up dough into a 14-inch-long log. Gently stretch and shape log with hands to lengthen and even out thickness, if necessary. Using a serrated knife or unflavored dental floss, trim ends of log if necessary, and cut log into 12 slices (about 11/8 inches thick each). Place slices, cut side down, on prepared pan. Loosely cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until puffed, 30 to 45 minutes.
- Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C).
- In a small bowl, whisk together egg and 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water; brush onto slices. Sprinkle with pearl sugar.
- Bake until golden brown and an instant-read thermometer inserted in center registers 190°F (88°C), 12 to 15 minutes. Let cool on pan for 10 minutes. Remove from pan, and let cool on a wire rack for 5 minutes. Best served warm. Store in an airtight container for up to 2 days.
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Pastry Cream
Ingredients
- ¾ cup (180 grams) whole milk
- 6 tablespoons (72 grams) granulated sugar, divided
- ½ teaspoon kosher salt
- ½ teaspoon vanilla bean paste
- 4 large egg yolks (74 grams), room temperature
- 1½ tablespoons (12 grams) cornstarch
Instructions
- In a small saucepan, heat milk, 3 tablespoons (36 grams) sugar, salt, and vanilla bean paste over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until steaming. (Do not boil.)
- In a medium bowl, whisk together egg yolks, cornstarch, and remaining 3 tablespoons (36 grams) sugar. Gradually add hot milk mixture, whisking constantly. Pour egg yolk mixture into saucepan, and bring to a boil over medium heat, whisking constantly. Cook, whisking constantly, for 2 to 3 minutes.
- Strain mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into a medium heatproof bowl. Cover with plastic wrap, pressing wrap directly onto surface of pastry cream to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate until completely cooled, at least 1 hour.
Tried this recipe?Let us know how it was!


