The best way to truly experience a region’s culture when traveling is through food and a local’s perspective. When we arrived at Michel’angelo Capri’s garden in the Anacapri neighborhood, local chef Gianluca D’Esposito and his wife, Holly Star, warmly welcomed us into their outdoor kitchen with open arms and island energy. Gianluca grew up on the island and loves to share his Caprese culinary traditions with guests in hands-on cooking classes that are equally entertaining and educational. Holly and Gianluca’s love story began with a chance encounter that’s truly something out of a romance novel or movie. Holly, an attorney and native of Australia, was visiting Capri for the first time and met Gianluca when she walked into his then restaurant, Michel’angelo, in the center of town. While they didn’t speak the same language that evening, they shared a smile that brought their lives together and eventually led them to open Michel’angelo Capri cooking school in 2015 after they married and started a family.
For our day in the kitchen, we focused on all things lemon, beginning with Gianluca’s delicate Torta Caprese al Limone. Gianluca beamed with pride as he used his great-grandmother’s wooden spoon to fold the torta batter and told us about “mama’s cake.” What we love most about this recipe is that it’s even better the day after it’s made. Permission was given to let it completely cool in the pan, where it can stay until the next day. Now, that’s a baker’s made-ahead dream.
Once our cake was underway, it was time to focus on two pasta dishes that we’d laterenjoy at lunch. While we always find joy in kneading pasta dough by hand, it’s even better when you’re taking in the views of a lush island garden and laughing with new friends. Ravioli Capresi—a local pasta filled with cheese and marjoram, served in a fresh pomodorini tomato sauce, and topped with basil—is bright and decadent at the same time. Fettuccine al Limone is a brilliantly simple recipe, as so many are in Italy, where a few key, high-quality ingredients harmonize perfectly.
Our last kitchen task was preparing homemade limoncello, an essential ingredient for Torta Caprese al Limone and a traditional ending to an Italian meal.
As we sat for lunch, we sipped several of the wines Holly and Gianluca produce from grapes grown on the mainland and in the region, tasted their cold-pressed extra-virgin olive oils, and enjoyed the rewards of our time in the kitchen and stories from our gracious hosts about life on Capri.
GO THERE
To book a class at Michel’angelo Capri, order Holly and Gianluca’s fabulous olive oils and tomato sauces, and follow along with their island adventures,
visit giardinodicapri.com and follow on Instagram at @michelangelo_capri.
GETTING TO CAPRI
The island of Capri can be reached by only private boat or ferry from Naples, Sorrento, Positano, Amalfi, Salerno, or Ischia. The closest airport is Naples-Capodichino International Airport (NAP), but Leonardo da Vinci Rome Fiumicino Airport (FCO) is approximately three hours away by car to the ferry port in Naples. If you’re staying on Capri, your hotel can arrange a ferry transfer as well as a taxi service and luggage transfer from the ferry once you arrive on the island.
EXPERIENCE CAPRI FROM THE WATER
A trip to Capri isn’t complete without time on the water, where visitors can take in the iconic views of the Faraglioni, visit the Blue Grotto that was rediscovered in 1826, or check out the beach clubs that are renowned for their brightly colored umbrellas. For locals, like Holly Star and Gianluca D’Esposito, boat picnics are a family tradition, and we loved getting to experience one with them after a day in their kitchen. Gianluca prepared several of his family’s picnic favorites, including rice salad, Capresi Farfalle, Insalata Caprese, his mom’s spaghetti pizza (yes, you read that right!), and marinated salmon. The crowning jewel was the Traditional Chocolate Torta Caprese, made from the very recipe Gianluca’s father used when he was a chef on Capri 40 years ago.
We chose Exclusive Cruises for our sunset cruise. Whether you’re looking for a day on the water or a sip of prosecco during golden hour, they can customize an itinerary that suits you.
exclusivecruisescapri.com and on Instagram at @exclusivecruises
NOT TO BE MISSED TASTES OF CAPRI
Chiosco Tizzano di Natalia e Antonio Tizzano S.N.C.
Expect hollowed-out lemons heaping with refreshing Sorbetto con Limoni di Capri and Granita di Limone at this picturesque stand that’s carefully adorned with fresh lemons each morning.
Gelateria Buonocore Capri
Most days, this famous gelato stop on the island has long lines as visitors are looking to cool down. Go early or late in the day if you want to miss the crowds, and be sure to try the Fantastia di Capri, an incredible combination of almond, vanilla, and hazelnut.
Le Grottelle
Perched high on one of the island’s limestone cliffs near the Arco Naturale, a naturally formed arch that dates back to the Paleolithic Age, this fourth-generation restaurant is literally built into the rock face. The restaurant’s outdoor terrace rambles along the coast, where seagulls cheerfully call out and dive into the sea. Our menu favorites are the ricotta-filled Ravioli Capresi that’s handmade every morning, Mozzarella alla Brace (translation: grilled mozzarella), Limone Sorbetto, and their fabulous tortas.
Instagram at @ristorantelegrottelle
CAPRI ARTISANS
The shopping on Capri can’t be missed, and while you’ll find the stores of many luxury brands and those that cater to tourists and day-trippers, there’s also a vibrant community of creatives with long histories of crafting unique island-made wares. Holly Star showed us some of her favorite spots and introduced us to the shop owners and artists who are keeping local alive.
Canfora
The stylish leather sandals that Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Princess Margaret, and Grace Kelly so effortlessly wore while on holiday and made globally popular can be attributed to Capri. While many sandal shops dot the island, we think Canfora, open on Via Camerelle since the 1940s, is the best. Pro tip: Head here as soon as you arrive so your sandals can be custom-made and ready before your departure.
Claudia
Located in the Anacapri area of the island, Claudia is a beautiful ceramic store where three generations have been hand-painting beautiful pieces for the last 70 years. Find colorful tiles, iconic lemon head vases, artwork, and more.
Eco Capri
The family of Letizia Cerio, a well-known artist in the 1950s, found an innovative way to keep her art and spirit forever part of Capri through fashion-forward designs. Her vibrant line drawings, some that depict scenes of Capri, have been lovingly preserved and transferred to everything from scarves and caftans to stunning home décor items and tote bags.
Galleria d’Arte Antonio Palomba
The charing paintings of Capri hung outside this tiny art gallery will instantly draw you into the space where Antonio Palomba spends his days painting. Antonio grew up in a family of artists, and he’s been painting since he was 11 years old, drawing inspiration from the landscape and streets of the island.
La Parisienne
You might be wondering why a Capri boutique is named after Paris, but when it opened in 1906, Italian fashion didn’t exist as it does today. French fashion was en vogue, and the name represents that period. The irony we love is that one of the most well-known fashion styles in history was created here. La Parisienne is the birthplace of the Capri pants that Jackie O made famous and chic on the island and around the world. To this day, La Parisienne has a workshop downstairs where they tailor Capri pants, shorts, jackets, and caftans for their well-heeled customers from exquisite fabrics.
Sea Gull
Opened since 1961, Sea Gull is one of the first shops you’ll wander upon as you enter the pedestrian-only zone of the island from Marina Grande. This ceramics store features handmade—and customizable—pieces that reflect the beauty of the sea.
Solaro Gin
We know room in your suitcase is precious, but Solaro Gin deserves a trip home. The bottle resembles the blue-and-yellow tilework of Capri, and the gin is sustainably made with local botanicals. Find Solaro Gin in cocktails at La Minerva hotel and other fine island establishments.
